|lowest and highest point:||0 masl along southern coast/ 4995 masl Abra del Acay 📷|
|lowest and highest temperature:||-2°C in Copahue, during the night / 43°C outside of Chilecito 📷|
|money spent:||42 US$ per person and day|
|average fuel price:||1.08 US$ per litre (fuel is subsidised in Patagonia, though some remote fuel stations, such as the one in Bajo Caracoles, still ask for the highest prices in all of Argentina (1.31 US$ per litre))|
|average fuel consumption:||4.2 litres per 100 km
consumption was considerably higher when combined with headwind or higher altitudes
|lost:||the rubber strap we just found in Chile
Nora’s hip bag containing Swiss army knife, ear phones, tire pressure measuring device, colour pencils & a good luck charm (luckily the passport was handed in at the Swiss consulate in Mendoza)
|found:||‘’el fin del mundo’’ 📷|
|broken:||LBBs rear rack broke, most likely due to too many encounters with potholes and long stretches of washboard 📷
After only 2’000 km LBBs Chinese chain had a loose pin 📷 and 10 days later it broke on me while riding 📷 – fortunately it didn’t get caught on the sprockets or the swing arm
|fixed:||new chain roll to guard LBBs coolant expansion tank|
|punctures:||4 on LBBs rear tire (1 wire 📷, 1 screw 📷, 1 rusty nail 📷, 1 loosened cold patch due to excessive heat, which caused the valve to rip off (bye bye heavy duty tube 😞) 📷)|
|best route(s):||> taking the Passo del Cristo Redentor from Uspallata to Chile (NN – Mendoza) – twisty gravel road with tons of good views 📷
> the lonely road between Los Antiguos and the Paso Roballos (RP 41 – Santa Cruz) – wild, untouched country 📷
> almost any stretch of the Ruta 40 North of Cafayate (RN 40 – Salta/Jujuy) – red rock formations, green cacti, smooth gravel, lots of unexpected ups and downs and turns 📷
|hardest section:||> Mendoza to Uspallata taking the difficult road (RP 13 – Mendoza) – but man, it was so worth it! 📷
> the stretch just North of Tres Lagos (RN 40 – Santa Cruz) – deep, large and rounded gravel
> between Bajo Caracoles and the border to Chile (RP 41 – Santa Cruz) – unrelenting washboard and headwind
|best sleeping place:||refugio “Parque de Nieve” Laguna Tromen (-37.098265, -70.118186)
Nobody there in the locked refugio, but behind it was this little hut – 3×5 m, free to use. It let us have good dinner sheltered from the wind and a peaceful night.
|Best food and/or beverage:||tenderloin steak in the El Boliche de Alberto in Bariloche (-41.135440, -71.307280). We went back for a second helping 2 months later. Wasn’t as good as the first time, but still awesome.
honeydew melon in Pareditas
|best moment:||N: getting most of the contents of my hip bag back (incl. passport, motorcycle papers, and diary) 📷|
|worst moment:||P: killed a little rabbit, which ran in to my motorbike 📷
N: realising I lost my hip bag
|favourite place(s):||Magellanic penguin colony at PN Monte Leon (-50.348172, -68.925323) 📷
Seeing 9000-year-old hand prints at Cueva de los Manos (-47.153717, -70.663035) 📷
Riding our first high altitude pass and experiencing wobbly knees and shortness of breath while taking a break at the top (Abra del Acay, 4995 masl) (-24.436818, -66.239145) 📷
|learned:||do not assume that just because you give Chinese chains and tires a chance, they will also live up to your expectations 📷|
|new words:||camara (tube)
canguro (miser (besides kangaroo, obviously))
|food on the road:||Provolone in the pan or “Argentinian fondue”
|observations:||> Even though they share the name, Chilean and Argentinian Patagonia offer two completely different landscapes and ecosystems.
> Argentinians like artistic street signs. 📷
> Guanacos all poop on the same pile.
> Penguins are tough little buggers.
> A helmet with shield and Patagonian wind are a bad combination.
> You can count on the constant sidewind to help use the sides of your tires.
> Argentina’s West is either cold and dry or hot and dry.
> A few trees can alter the microclimate drastically.